Men’s costume from zero to hero – Part 01 – Research

09.02.2015 by Rotschopf in Clothing, Tutorials

Since I accompany my husband in and his group of Ancient greek reenactors  and we both participate in Stone age activities together, it was about time for him to join me and my oldest baby, the 14th century AD. I thought you might be interested to see my journey through making a complete period costume for him from zero to hero.

Cheap. It has to be mainly cheap, since he is not going to use the costume very often and of course he will fit to my own interpretation as simplefolk, so that is not a problem. The simplicity of the equipment is also what will make this little series so nice for beginners, cheap and easy, isn’t that what all beginners want?

First step, the search for sources

It is easy to find models from original pictures for men’s costume of that time. The type of clothing is mostly the same. Some examples:

Gurker Dom around 1345 ((c) Christina C.)

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Speculum Humanae Salvationis around 1345 (by courtesy of Imareal)

Anatomia of Guy de Vigeganot around 1345

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Concordantiae caritatis around 1349 (by courtesy of Imareal)

 

Rock/kirtle:
I will go for a simple knee-length Rock with buttoned sleeves (about 5 textile buttons) and 2-3 buttons on the neckline (as I already did on the Rock of Rene ). For the pattern I will consult the Herjolfsnes findings in combination with the Bocksten Mann, since it is save to say that these patterns will lead to a result perfectly comparable to the above pictures. It is basically going to be a simple tunic cut with side gores and gores in the sleeves.

Hose:
Here I will use the numberous findings of numberous findings of Hose in Europe. The pattern will be in two parts, there will be no sole piece since I have not found any evidence for that, the seam will go in the middle of the sole under his foot.

Underwear:
I will choose a simple linnen shirt in a tunic-pattern with 2 side gores and breeches with 02 tubes for the legs and a gusset inbetween, I have decided to do the same type of pattern, following the ideas of Purrucker and Lehnert, not Thursfield. If you are doing it right, you can create this pattern from only one piece of fabric.

Gugel/hood:
Very simple kind of clothing due to the many findings of hoods from Herjolfsnes, London findings and the Bocksten Mann.

Accessories:
A leather belt, a felted hat (Bycocket) and nice shoes after findings from Lengberg will round up the ensemble. I hope that the shoes will be the most expensive part of the costume. Cloak and Suckl/Surcot will be done later if needed and only if he is interested in the topic a little more than now :-)

 

 

The other parts of the series:

Part 1 – Research

Part 2 – Bruoch

Part 3 – Hosen

Part 4 – Shirt

Part 5 – Hood

Part 6 – Kyrtle